Not too long ago, I went and got a medical certification for my esthetics license. It hasn't quite advanced my career, but it definitely gave me a new perspective on medical cosmetic procedures and it gives me the ability to educate my clients on different procedures and enhance any work they may have done.
Of course, it isn't only medical procedures that are complex and difficult to explain. There are a host of esthetic procedures that you may encounter in a spa that can seem a little scary or need additional explanation. This handy guide will hopefully answer some of your questions, but it should not be a substitution for your esthetician's education. By this, I mean, if your esthetician can't describe it, can't give you the benefits of it, and doesn't know the contraindications of it... go elsewhere.
Microdermabrasion
This one has been around a while and that's because it has stood the test of time. What is it? Think of it like sandblasting your face - small particles are blown at your face while simultaneously being sucked off of it. It removes all the dead skin particles off the top layer of your skin, clearing any debris that makes your skin rough or blocks your pores trapping oil, bacteria and other things that are bad for it. What is the benefit? It can smooth out rough skin leaving healthy glowing skin behind. By cleaning the debris out of the pores, it allows for deeper penetration of products giving you better results. Who should stay away from it? If you're using any powerful retinoids or doctor prescribed creams/medication for the skin. (Make sure you let your esthetician know what medications you are on) If you have rosacea or broken capillaries (red veins in your face) the esthetician will have to stay away from these areas or it can make them much worse. It is not recommended for acne (look to chemical peels for assistance). Since this procedure causes a injury response in the skin (when your skin senses an injury, it floods the area with new and healthy cells), people who suffer from diabetes or auto-immune disorders should not get microdermabrasion. If you suffer from eczema, dermatitis or psoraisis, microdermabrasion can irritate the condition and cause it to get worse.
Microcurrent
The cells in your body create electrical signals and some of these electrical signals stimulate cellular metabolism. This cellular metabolism slows with age and it is this metabolism that increases collagen and elastin fibers. If these things don't mean anything to you, maybe this will... collagen is what gives your skin its fullness and keeps the wrinkles away and elastin keeps your skin toned and sag-free. What is it? Electrodes are placed on your skin and small currents are sent through to simulate the electrical signals as described before. What is the benefit? Overtime, there is an overall improvement in skin tone, but you will have to keep up with regular treatments to maintain the benefits. This is the only proven treatment to affect facial muscles. Who should stay away from it? If you're pregnant, suffer from epilepsy or have a heart condition/pacemaker.
LED Therapy
This has proven itself in clinical trials, but still remains the subject of controversy. What is it? Colored lights stimulate cellular activity depending on the type of light is used. For example, blue light is used for acne because of its healing and antibacterial abilities. Purple light helps reduce the signs of Rosacea. Red light stimulates collagen and helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. What is the benefit? Depending on your condition, there may be a light therapy that can help reduce the symptoms of that condition. However, the best results have come from blue light which reduces the production of p.acnes bacteria that causes acne and red light which helps repair skin damaged in the aging process. Who should stay away from it? Anyone who has skin conditions that can be aggravated by light or if they are taking herbs/drugs that can cause light sensitivity.
Iontophoresis
You may also hear it being called galvanic current but can also be in reference to microcurrent as well (see above). What is it? Electrical current is used to drive products deeper into the skin for more benefit. What is the benefit? High-powered products can be forced deeper into the skin (although legally estheticians can not do ANYTHING that directly effects the lower layers of skin - we work top layer only) which gives you higher results. Who should stay away from it? The same people who should stay away from microcurrent.
Oxygen Infusion
This is a more temporary skin solution, but if you need to look fantastic for an event, this is definitely the direction to go. What is it? A tool, usually an airbrush gun of some sort, sprays oxygen and other specialty serums directly onto the skin. What is the benefit? The pressurized oxygen helps other products to penetrate deeper into the skin and the oxygen gives your skin an instant pick-me-up. It feels great too. Who should stay away from it? Right now there aren't any contraindications for these treatments, but serums should be given skin patch tests before being used to see if there will be any negative effects.
Ultrasound
This is also known as sonophoresis. It is already used by doctors to help with drainage after surgery, but now is it being used for esthetic purposes as well. What is it? Especially when used in conjunction with a deep exfoliation, ultrasound helps products to penetrate deeper into the skin. What is the benefit? Products get deeper into the skin producing better results. Who should stay away from it? The same contraindications for microcurrent exist for ultrasound, but since it can also stimulate blood flow, you do not want to use it with people suffering from cancer, have infections or illness (including colds), and blood issues including risk of hemorrhage and vein thrombosis.
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